Spring comfort food at its finest.
Food comes in and out of fashion with the seasons. Spring brings an explosion of fresh produce, and everyone runs to the farmer’s market, eager to play with fresh new flavors. Salmon becomes the new favorite and fresh greens—leeks, fennel, peas—pop up in restaurants everywhere.
Caught up in the season’s new obsessions, we shun the rich—but just as delicious—foods that got us through winter. Lasagna, beef stew, and potato gratins are suddenly much too heavy for our new spring taste. At least that’s what we say.
But often, if we’re honest with ourselves, we still hold a secret desire for comfort food. We’re caught between the seasons’ yin and the yang, and no matter how much we tell ourselves otherwise, we’re still craving hearty noodle bowls and flaky pie crusts.
These hand pies bring together the best of both worlds. Filled with sweet creamy crab and popping with spring onion and peas, they embrace spring’s light fresh flavors. At the same time, the buttery, flaky pastry and savory bacon fill our inexplicable desire for comfort food, even in the middle of May. They’re small and portable—perfect for spring picnics and lighter snacks—but also robust and satisfying enough that three or four of them would also make a fantastic lunch. Most importantly, they are absolutely delicious.
The next time you’re searching for a recipe that creates comfort with a crisper drawer full of spring produce, look no further.
Enjoy!
Spring Crab, Pea, and Bacon Hand Pies
(Makes 24)
For the pastry:
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled (1 cup)
8 ounces all-purpose flour (2 scant cups)
½ teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt
½ cup ice water
1 egg, beaten (for glazing)
For the crab, bacon, and pea filling:
2 ounces cream cheese
2 tablespoons sour cream
½ teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
8 ounces lump crabmeat
4 slices bacon, cooked and cut horizontally into ½-inch strips
½ cup spring onions, light green parts thinly sliced
½ cup peas
Special equipment: rolling pin, baking sheet, parchment paper, pastry brush (optional)
Method
For the pastry:
Slice the butter into cubes. In a bowl, toss together flour and salt until thoroughly mixed, then add in the butter. Working quickly, smash the butter cubes flat and toss in the flour so they are coated. Do not rub the butter into the flour too much or allow it to break up or melt; you want big chunks of butter.
Pour in the ice water and stir together with your hands until a shaggy dough forms, pulling away from the side of the bowl. Don’t knead. You should still see big chunks of butter in the mixture. Gather the dough together into a ball and transfer to a heavily floured board.
Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out into a long rectangle, then fold it in thirds like you would a business letter. Turn the dough 90 degrees so the short end is facing you, and roll out again. Repeat the folding.
(Feel free to add more flour to prevent sticking. If the butter begins to melt, transfer the dough to the refrigerator in a covered container until it is cold enough to continue working with without the butter melting.)
Roll out for a third time, this time into a large rectangle wide circle about the thickness of a coin.
Cut out 24 three-inch circles. Transfer circles to a baking sheet (it’s all right to layer them on top of each other, but be sure to separate the layers with plastic wrap so they don’t stick together). Cover the baking sheet tightly with plastic wrap, and chill for at least one hour.*
For the filling:
Beat the cream cheese and sour cream together in a bowl until smooth. Stir in the kosher salt and lemon juice, then gently fold in crab, bacon, sliced green onions, and peas.
To assemble and bake:
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Remove chilled dough from the refrigerator a few circles at a time. Using a rolling pin, gently roll out each circle so it is thinner and slightly larger. Place two tablespoons of the filling in the center of one side of the circle, then fold the other side over. Seal the edges with a fork, or by crimping (if you know how). Transfer the sealed turnovers to the parchment-lined baking sheet and refrigerate while you continue filling the others.**
When you’re ready to bake a full sheet, brush the tops of the turnovers with beaten egg.
Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown.
*At this point you can freeze the frozen circles of pastry for up to one month. Freeze on the sheet, covered as directed. When the dough has completely frozen, stack the frozen circles in groups of twelve, wrap in plastic wrap, and store in an airtight container. (This may seem excessive, but it will ensure you prevent freezer burn.) When you’re ready to bake, thaw pastry dough in the refrigerator before using.
**The hand pies can also be frozen, filled and unbaked, for up to 1 month. Freeze them first on top of the parchment paper on the baking sheet, then transfer to plastic bag and store in an airtight container to prevent freezer burn.
Originally posted May 23, 2020.